The pattern sheet held an interesting surprise. French dart!
These shaped darts look wonderful on the figure. Very flattering for all figures. This particular pattern for these darts does present a bit of a hazard, though. Since the bulk of the dart is removed when cutting the fabric, only a minimal seam allowance is available for adjustment. In this case, the dart is stitched with a 3/8 inch seam and then bound with bias tape.
The next photo shows the curvature of the dart in addition to the bust point and the finished garment measurement at the bust.
I require a size 22 for this pattern. Yep, I’m a plus size. I’m over it. Numbers don’t matter, but FIT does. So a size 22 it will be.
A Word About Garment Measurements
The finished garment measurements will be DIFFERENT for every pattern, since each pattern is a different style. Each style begins with the standard measurements. Wearing ease is added for comfort on the body. Design ease is added to achieve the style.
Vogue drafts a size 22 with the standard measurements for Bust 44, Waist 37, and Hip 46. The finished garment dimensions on this pattern are Bust 49 1/2, Waist 41, and Hip 50.
Since some patterns are designed with a looser fit, it is entirely possible that occasionally I can move down to a size 18 or 20 in Vogue (and rarely a size 16). That is because of style ease. But I typically find that size 22 works for me.
The distinction between the pattern company’s Standard Measurements and the Finished Garment Measurements can cause much confusion for those just beginning garment construction.
Notice the slight shaping at the top of the skirt. Waistline marking and hip marking along with finished garment measurements are given.
There is a lengthen and shorten line on the skirt, but none is provided for the bodice. Since I am tall, that could present a problem for me. I usually have to lengthen above the waist.
I did a bit of tissue fitting. I like this. I plan to cut a muslin tomorrow. This might work!
Sewing In Circles 